Well here we go again, jetting off to go
and do a ridicules bike race. This time we were heading to a place in Minnesota called International
Falls and its only claim to fame is
that it’s the coldest place in America
The Arrowhead 135 http://www.arrowheadultra.com recognized in the book "The World's Toughest Endurance Challenges" by
Richard Hoad and Paul Moore as one of the 50 toughest races in the world. It is
a human powered Ultra Marathon taking place in the coldest part of winter in
the coldest city in the lower 48 states. Our average finish rate is 50%, the
finish rate for new racers is much lower.
135 miles Deep Winter
across Northern Minnesota on rugged, scenic
Arrowhead State Snowmobile Trail from Frostbite I-Falls to Tower, MN Fortune
Bay Casino. Pick mode of transport at start: bicycle, ski or foot. Historically
coldest race anyplace even the Arctic , check
average temps, virtually every year luck has us -30 to -40C/F, we have frostbite
to prove it. Or it snows and is a sloppy mess! Arrowhead 135 is an organization
of local folks dedicated to the promotion of human powered ultra-endurance
events across beautiful Arrowhead Region of Northern Minnesota. Our Race
Mission is fostering national and international amateur endurance sports such
as winter-biking, skiing and trail running.
I’ve now been snow bike racing for 3 years
I have committed a lot and time and money into racing fatbikes in various
locations around the world. Preparing to be physically and mentally fit for a
race in January can be very hard work, especially with the endless wet and
muddy conditions and long dark nights. This year I have been praying for a hard
cold winter and I have ended up with the opposite. My body could be in for a
bit of a shock with a second polar vortex due to hit North
America next week with potential temperatures of -55oC. Due to the very wet and muddy conditions in
the UK
Arrowhead 135 and Rovanimi 150 Race
Our journey up to International Falls
We now had three days to build up our bikes
and test our gear in the current conditions. It was looking like it was going
to be cold which is good for the bikes because it makes the snow much firmer to
ride on. Friday morning I got up and built up my beautiful Salsa Carbon
Beargrease and had a quick check over it to make sure all was ok. After a
hearty or heart attack breakfast at the fabulous Café Landing we decided to go
for a little ride along the trail.
The science of snow is very complex and the
conditions can change vastly whether you are skiing or trying to ride on the
stuff. Having the time to fiddle with tyre pressures was very important. I had
taken the decision to run Surley Rolling Darryl’s rims with 45 North Dillingertyres which are both grippy and relatively
light.
The temperature that day was around -20oC
which once you got moving was very comfortable. We rode about 10 miles down the
trail to the first shelter and it was so firm. I couldn’t believe it we kept
stopping and adding more and more air in our tyres. I think we got up to around
18psi which is unheard of for snow riding.
Once back at the motel we ordered more food
and chilled out watching cheesy American TV. I was feeling fairly confidant
with how my bike felt and how the trail was riding. With snow riding you have
to be very prepared to either have a very long push and to be covering ground
at a very steady pace. I always set in my own mind if I’m riding averaging 5mph
that’s a good thing because the alternative could be walking pushing a very
heavy bike at 2mph. My motto is “Be patient” which is very hard for me as I am
not known for my patience!
Over the next couple of days the Motel
began to fill up with other competitors and the atmosphere was just amazing.
There was such a vast wealth of experience from elite standard ultramarathon
runners to ex SAS soldiers. I did feel slightly in awe of these people but
everyone was very friendly and helpful. We all ended up as one big family for the
weekend and went out for our meals together. The social side was fantastic but
there was a slight undercurrent of fear spreading through the group. Everyone’s
televisions were blaring out news of a severe weather warning that was to hit North America . The jet streams were all over the place
and a second polar vortex was to hit with predicted temperatures of -50oC.
Everyone was worried which didn’t do a
great deal for my nerves. I think even the race organisers had their concerns
too. The race brief was very blunt and to the point as was the mandatory gear
check. I got a really hard time but you don’t argue as you could be pulled from
the race before you’ve even started and it’s for your own safety. Stats were
projected up showing the percentages of finishers over the 9 year history of
the race. The rate of attrition is so high for Arrowhead but on paper it looks
so doable. What is it about the arrowhead trail that makes it so hard?
It was soon Monday morning and I was ready
to just get on with things my nerves were jangling but I knew once I’d started
riding I would calm down. It was dark and cold when we lined up at the start.
My entire face was masked up and I had goggles on which was very
claustrophobic. At these temperatures you can’t have your skin exposed for any
length of time. Then all too quickly the air horn sounded to start the race. I
was determined not to get involved with the early race testosterone charge as
it was a long race, but somehow I did get caught up and I was soon riding way harder
than I intended too. I was very panicky inside my mask and goggles it was awful
and I felt like I couldn’t breathe. To make matters worse I soon began to
develop ice inside my goggles that was slowly taking over my vision. I really
didn’t know what to do I couldn’t breathe or see. I was thinking my race could
be over inside the first 5 miles! Other riders started to overtake me because I
was forced to slow down and I noticed most of them had removed their goggles,
as I was inexperienced with dealing with such low temperatures I didn’t know if
this was the done thing but I was left with very little choice so off with the
goggles it was! Hooray I could see again but my eyes kept freezing shut but
itwas better than frozen goggles. I gradually settled down and it was so
beautiful out there massive blue sky and glistening snow I was so lucky to be
having this experience. I paused at the first shelter to have a quick drink and
a little to eat. I was planning to do this on the move but it’s impossible when
you are wearing a mask. Andy was having a slight issue with his right foot so I
rode on whilst he adjusted his footwear.
It was so cold so I have to ride at a tempo
that was slightly quicker than I had originally planned just to keep warm.
Arrowhead 135 tail runs 135 miles from International
Falls to Fortune Bay
Once fed and our clothes dried we decide to
leave together which was great for actually getting out of the door and braving
the cold. We rode along admiring how beautiful it was and it was great to be
with Andy again. A few miles further along I could gradually feel the cold
creeping in and I needed to ride a little harder. It was awful feeling riding
off and leaving Andy but it was the right thing to do as we needed to ride at different
paces to keep our temperatures right.
I plugged on at my own tempo looking
forward to the next checkpoint that was the luxury cabin on the shores of Elephant Lake
I don’t know how much time passed but I
eventually reached the edge of Elephant
Lake
The welcome inside the cabin was
overwhelming and the ladies that devote their time to making sure the races are
well cared for are phenomenal I can’t ever thank you enough. I had to dig deep
not to burst into tears. I was soon sat down by the fire and offered soup and
grilled cheese sandwiches but I had a slight problem. My face mask had frozen
its self to my neck warmer. I was stuck and couldn’t eat with it still in place
so frustrating. Eventually it defrosted slightly and I painfully managed to
drag it over my head. Freedom!
It was now around 9pm and I had learned
that the temperatures on the lake were -55oC no wonder it was painful. I was
sat gently defrosting and worrying about Andy. Pre race I had decided I wasn’t
going to stop and sleep but now with these temperatures I was considering
having a knap in the comfort of the cabin as sleeping out in a bivvy
wasn’t something I really wanted to consider at -55oC! Then Andy arrived I was so happy to see him, but the lake crossing had taken it out on him too. The ladies were very quick to realisehe had suffered frost nip on his right ear and quickly checked it out. Fortunately it was just nip and it would be fine providing he kept it covered. After a quick catch up and food we decided to have a sleep and I was considering hitting the trail at around 2am. This would give me a good 5 hours rest wow! We both laid down upstairs with many of the other racers. It’s not a time be prudish as you snuggle up with people you hardy know in various states of undress. You do what you have to do. The cabin was very noisy and too hot but I just closed my eyes and tried to relax a little. After a little time Andy sat up and said my foot feels weird. He removed his sock to reveal the horror that was 5 black toes on his left foot. I felt like I had been hit by a steam train and his face went ashen.
He has suffered frost bite; this is
something that happens to other people! Amongst the ladies in the cabin was a
nurse from Minnesota
I was lost and devastated for Andy. He had
trained so hard for this event and I have absolutely no doubt he would have
finished but being pulled out on medical grounds was just unfair. I just didn’t
know what to do I too was suffering with my feet and my right foot had swollen
up but the blood flow was fine. Gradually more and more racers were filling the
cabin and this included the lady who was in 3rd place behind me. I
can’t deny this fired me up and she said she was going to have a few hours’
sleep and get back out there at 5am so a group of 4 of us decided to go out
together at 5am. I was in the cabin for almost 9 hours and that wasn’t really
in my race strategy but given the circumstances it was the right thing to do.
After some more sleep and food I started to
get my kit together in preparation of carrying on. I really can’t say how I
felt part of me didn’t want to quit, part of me wanted to quit and most of me
didn’t want to leave Andy. It was awful, frightening and just confusing. I went
to put on my boots and I just could not get my right foot into my boot. Hooray
I have got a genuine excuse not to go outside but Andy came up with a cunning
plan. Take my boots I don’t need them, so that’s what I did. I rode off in a
pair of size 12 boots when I only a 4!
Riding away leaving Andy and the warmth of
the cabin was one of the toughest decisions I have ever had to make but once I
was back out there I just discovered how strong I could be. The second half of
the course is much tougher and hiller and it was colder. I soon discovered that
I just wasn’t going to be warm no matter how hard I rode. I one point I was
making myself do 10 second sprints to try and increase blood flow. My head and
face were incased in ice which was starting to hurt my face. I soon rode away
from the group that had left Melgeorge with me. I did feel very rude doing this
but I needed to maintain my pace. I had no doubt in my mind if I could just get
to Ski Pulk I would be able to finish.
Head down and making me pause to eat and
drink every 5 miles I made the lonely 40 mile journey to Ski Pulk. I don’t
really know how long it took and there were times I was terrified because my
hands wouldn’t work and I was struggling to eat and drink and as soon as I
stopped the situation became worst very quickly. I was hoping to be lucky
enough to see some wildlife as there was plenty of very fresh wolf tracks but
it was not to be.
Suddenly out of the forest I could hear
voices and a cow bell. I was at the last checkpoint and was given the biggest
hug from Mike I’ve ever had. I was fighting back tears once again. I was so
well looked after. I was bundled into a tent and handed a much needed hot
chocolate. I took the decision to try and eat and drink as much as I could
stomach whilst in the shelter of the tent. I was still cold so I changed my
hats and face mask and also put on my huge down jacket I had with me in case of
an emergency.
I was determined to finish in daylight as I
couldn’t face the cold of the night for second time. This was the driving
factor that got me to the end. My legs felt amazing but my shoulders were done
for. I could hardly hold myself up right on the bike. I think I finished the
last section with my chin on the stem.
The very last section was very confusing
and my brain wasn’t functioning as it should have done. I was so concerned
about getting lost at this late stage but eventually I saw the signs for Fortune Bay
The journey was a mixture of emotions and I
am still sad Andy wasn’t there with me. After Arrowhead he endured a hellish
week in hospital and is still on his long road to recovery. I am blown away by
his determination and he is already planning a comeback in 2015. I still
haven’t got my head round that I am the first European lady to have ever
finished Arrowhead 135 and I managed to hold on to 2nd place.
I am more than happy to share my kit list
and clothing list but I just want to include the following caveat. Riding in
these conditions is very dangerous and I am learning and modifying my set up
all the time. Just because the following works for me it might not necessary
work for you. Please come and visit me at All Terrain Cycles should you prefer
to talk bike packing/ adventure racing in person. I am more than happy to help
and we have a good range of adventure bikes in stock.
Luggage: Relelate
Designs – Alaska
AlpKit
Wildcat
Sleeping bag: Mountain Equipment Everest
Bivvy bag: AlpKit
Sleeping Mat: ThermarestNeoAir
Stove: MSR
XGK
Pots: Alpkit
titanium
Clothes: Boots 45 North
Liner sock
Lorpen
expedition socks
Smartwool
socks
EnduraEquipeWindstopper tights
Mountain Equipment fleece trousers
Mountain Equipment fleece trousers
M&S
Sports Bra
Endura Baa Baa base layer
Gore
Primoloft Gilet
Primaloft
Jacket
Endura Stealth jacket
http://www.allterraincycles.co.uk/Endura-Stealth-II-Waterproof-Jacket
http://www.allterraincycles.co.uk/Endura-Stealth-Womens-Cycling-Jacket
http://www.allterraincycles.co.uk/Endura-Stealth-II-Waterproof-Jacket
http://www.allterraincycles.co.uk/Endura-Stealth-Womens-Cycling-Jacket
Various
Gloves
DogWoodPogies
(bar mits) Alaska
Cold
Avenger Face mask
Oakley
Goggles and glasses
Extra Clothes: Various Gloves
Buffs
Hats
Face
mask
Rab
Expedition down Jacket
Lights: USE Exposure Joystick
USE Exposure Flare
GPS: Garmin Edge 800 with USE Exposure battery
back up
http://www.allterraincycles.co.uk/Search?q=garmin
http://www.allterraincycles.co.uk/Search?q=garmin
Hydration: CamelbakSpark
Hydro Heater Alaska
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